Bocas del Toro, Panama -- a string of islands a few miles south of the border, Bocas del Toro, Panama makes a great side-trip from Costa Rica, or even an extended vacation. Especially if you enjoy snorkeling, secluded beaches, and the soft kiss of Caribbean trade winds in a place most travelers have not even heard of yet. But get there in the next year or so, before the rest of the world finds out about this romantic, secluded hideaway.
A one-flight from San Jose, or 10 hours by bus and water taxi, this aquatic hideaway consists of small islands whose intimate hotels, resorts and bungalows offer year ‘round snorkeling and scuba diving, excellent surfing and fishing, and an ambiance that combines the best of the Caribbean and the South Seas. (On a map, look for it on Costa Rica's east border with Panama.)
This atmospheric archipelago's main island (actually the tip of a peninsula) can be reached only by air or water. The hotels and the budding tourism scene are centered here. It is a tranquil town whose main street offers local dining as well as more expensive Italian cuisine.
Nightlife consists of waterfront bars such as the one at Starfleet Eco Adventures, the top diving outfit there. Beer for 75 cents, Pina Coladas and Margaritas for $3 -- this place stays open as long as you are drinking, and at these prices, that might be awhile.
Population is 2,000 or 3,000, depending on who you ask. Most people speak some English, the currency is dollar-based, and the atmosphere is open and friendly. Cable TV and an Internet cafe let you keep up with the news back home.
The nearest beach is a 10-minute stroll from town. For other beaches on the big island, which are better for swimming and snorkeling, you can take a taxi or van. Water taxis can take you to nearby islands for lunch or dinner, snorkeling or diving, nature hikes and other activities
Diving, Fishing, Sights to See
All day snorkeling/nature trips cost $30, gear provided. If you just want to snorkel, hire any of the dugouts to take you to Hospital Point for $5. Some of the underwater sites in these islands reveal a vast array of tropical fish, from Grey Angels to Hogfish, from Parrot fish to Triggerfish. Stag coral and brain coral -- almost all 79 known types of Caribbean coral are found here. Full PADI courses as well as scuba trips are available at Starfleet. One sportfishing boat works the area, but more are on the way.
Dining on Lobster and Pizza
How about lobster tails for $12-$15? Several pizza places, but even the Italians here cannot make good pizza. Le Pirate has good seafood, Buena Vista Bar & Grill does the Jamaica jerk chicken thing ok, and the cafeteria across from the government building has chicken, vegetables, other entrees for about $2 (sometimes they offer lobster tails in salsa for $6, but get there early) and is the best breakfast place in town
Isla Basimentos
A 10-minute boat ride to Basimentos, population 200. There you will discover the area’s best beaches. Red Frog Beach, named for a frog that lives exclusively on Basimentos, offers great snorkeling and diving. Underwater action remains excellent even in rainy season, because the virgin coral reef is just far out enough to avoid silt, but close enough to swim out and explore (boats will also take you there).
Booming Calypso music rolls across the water as you approach Basimentos, whose local bar is an over-the-water thatched roof affair. Cabinas and small resorts enable you to stay overnight, or spend your entire visit there on the island
Isla Carenero
This one is even closer to the main island. It is home of the area’s first marina (another is being built off the main island). Sunset Grill is a good lunch or dinner spot. They have inviting bungalows for $45, and a monkey and a talking parrot complete the atmosphere of the grounds.
